curly girls

Before and After for Fall

2011-10-11T07:34:00.000-07:00

Our model had a grown out stacked bob and highlights that needed to be retouched. For fall we decided to deepen her color and add some bright red in the front to create interest. Her hair is not shorter but curled. The darker color adds depth while the curls add texture. Dramatic color in the front allows for an easy change in look since a simple shift in part hides the red. The darker shade helps stressed hair look healthier so there is no need for a big haircut, just a change in shape.

With Fall and the holiday season quickly approaching, makeup artist Ashley Bromirski of Radiant Beauty created a gorgeous look that complimented the model's new hair color. Shades of soft gold and deep bronze were washed on eyelids with a medium thickness black gel liner on upper lash line to give her eyes the added pop they needed with her new style. Letting her eyes be the focus, a softer lip color was chosen to enhance her natural lip topped with a crystal gloss for shine.

2011-07-13T11:16:00.000-07:00

This is re posted from Feb 09 and I have learned a little more about curls.
I have a new recommendation for 2nd and 3rd day curls.
Aquage makes a product called Moisture Mist which I have found useful for refreshing curls after sleeping on them on a non-shampoo day. It is also a good alternative to the Biolage Shine Milk Spray for a leave in. For curl refreshing, spray liberally on dry hair then diffuse. It leaves hair soft but gets it wet enough that curls can bunch up together again.

Here is the original post on care and maintenance of your curls. If you run into trouble you can always call the salon for help at (919)467-1111.

Lets talk about curls

The biggest complaints I hear from curly girls are: frizz and lack of styling knowledge. It's all pretty simple but it will take a shift in thinking to care for your curls properly and have predictably good hair days.

First let's define curls. A curl is a group of hairs that have dried together moving in the same direction at the same time. That direction is a circle. Because of the shape of the hair follicle, each of those hairs will move in a circular shape whether they are together in a group or not. When hairs dry NOT grouped together, they take on the appearance of frizz. What that means in a practical sense is that it's to our advantage to keep the hairs grouped together until they have dried. This will create more ringlets and less frizz. So with that knowledge, what things would you automatically change in your hair care routine?

Re-read the above definition of a curl before moving on and think about what you do when you get out of the shower.

To encourage curls you would not wrap your hair in a towel. The reason for this is the hairs which are in contact with the towel will dry more quickly than the hairs not in contact with the towel. We need them to group together before they begin to dry.
Also, don't rub your hair with a towel. Don't brush or comb your hair either. What should you do? Now that you understand the concept of encouraging the hairs to stick together until they dry, lets talk about the routine from shower to drying.

On day one in the shower, wet your hair and apply shampoo. Concentrate the product near your scalp and work it out towards the ends. Some of the best shampoos for curly hair are 'sulfate free'. The detergents in sulfate free shampoos are more gentle to the hair. Because of this, they do not lather as much as other shampoos. Put a dime sized amount in your hand, rub your hands together and apply to scalp working your way out towards the ends. These shampoos are also VERY concentrated. If you are having trouble getting good distribution, add more water, not more product. Now rinse thoroughly.

Next is conditioner. The shampoo was used to remove excess oil and build up on your scalp, conditioners should be applied mostly to the mid shaft and ends of the hair. Think about it, the hair close to your scalp is new, it's healthier than the mid shaft and ends and therefore needs less conditioner. Conditioners can weigh down healthy hair and cause your curls on top to be flat. Finger comb conditioner through your hair. It's okay if some of it gets on your scalp, just don't start there or concentrate on that area. On day one of my routine I usually condition twice, meaning apply conditioner, rinse and condition again. That is because I have dry and somewhat coarse hair. You should obviously adjust this part of the routine to your own needs. Finer hair (or short curly hair) may not need to be conditioned twice. Make sure you rinse thoroughly and can run your fingers through your hair from scalp to ends without hitting any snags before you get out of the shower.

Before I get out of the shower, I fling my head over and squeeze any excess water from my hair. Do not twist and squeeze, just squeeze while working your way down.
Now take a towel and blot the water from your hair. I usually also do this upside down. Don't rub, just blot out excess water. Sometimes a paper towel is a better choice because it absorbs more water without disrupting the shape of the curls.

Now it's time to apply styling products. Your hair should be evenly wet but not dripping at this point. Apply leave in conditioners first. Sometimes they are called styling creams. Even distribution is key. Come up with a method that works for you that you will remember and can replicate each time. You should be using (of course depending on hair length and texture) between a pea nand a lima bean sized amount.

Next, apply your fixative. By that I mean gel or mousse. Mousse is used if you need volume, gel for durability. Most of my curly haired clients use gel. Use one or the other, not both. Again, even application is essential. Use a little more of the gel or mousse than you used of the cream. For longer hair, it should be about the size of a quarter for gel, a golf ball for mousse. You may need another application to cover all your hair but don't try to use twice the amount at once. Apply once, then put more in your hand and apply again. Again, distribution is a key factor. Any hairs that don't get product on them will dry and look differently that the other hairs and will probably create frizz. The products are helping the curls to stick together.

Finally, the use of a spray gel will give better curl definition. Spray liberally over entire head. In my experience, most people aren't using enough of their products. Play around with the amount until it's right for you. We are layering products now. They all have different jobs. Don't try to mix them together in your hand and apply all at once. That is called cocktailing (more about that later ) what we are doing now is layering.

Even distribution of product is critical! If you use the spray gel on part of your hair and not all of it,the curls without the spray gel will not be shaped the same as the ones with it.
Now that we have layered three different products on our wet but not dripping hair, it is more wet than when we started. This is where paper towels come in really handy. Blot (DO NOT RUB) excess moisture out of the ends. This will cut down on drying time.

Now about drying. You will need a diffuser which is concave and has fingers. I find the dirrusers that come with hairdryers as an attachment are usually not deep enough. Try it to see if it works for you but a diffuser bought separately is an inexpensive investment that will be well worth it. Make sure the front of your hair is in the shape you prefer before you start. If you like it going one way or the other, make that adjustment before you start drying.

I like to start with my head upside down when drying. Know that if you fling upside down and start drying the top first you will have more volume. If the look you want is more of a vertical curl and less volume, start by leaning your head to the side. It doesn't matter which side you start on. Using your hairdryer on high heat and high volume with the diffuser on it, start drying in sections. The reason you are leaning to one side or the other (or are upside down) is because your hair should be hanging so you can place it in the cavity of the diffuser. In fact,the entire time you are drying, hair will simply be placed in the cavity of the diffuser and left there. Do not scrunch your hair while drying. This will separate the hairs and create frizz (or great 80's hair). Keep your hair in the diffuser until the heat gets to be too much around your face or scalp. This wii be about 10-15 seconds. Now take the dryer away and place the hair in the cavity again. Repeat this process until each section of hair is dry.

Please, Do not be afraid of the process. If for instance you start drying upside down, when you flip over, your hair will be huge. Don't freak out, don't try to pat it down or make it flatter. Gravity still works. It works every day on everything including your hair. It will look crazy during the drying process but it will all come together in the end.

Now that your hair is dry, it's probably big, funny shaped and crunchy. Now you may be wondering 'all that work for this?' or "what do I do now?'. Now that your hair is dried into curls, you can touch it without creating frizz as long as you touch it in the right way. So don't run your fingers through your hair! Scrunch it instead.

Scrunching is rubbing your fingers against the fat part of your hand. Thumbs are not engaged. Try doing it without hair before you try it on your hair. The purpose of scrunching is to get rid of the crunchy feeling and create a shape which you like. Know that you should scrunch until it looks the way you want it to, and then stop. You can scrunch too much, separate the hairs and create the frizz you were trying to avoid by diffusing. This sounds like a lot of work. It might take some time whan you first do it because you will be unpracticed. As you get better, it takes less time. My hair is pretty long and the whole process takes less than 15 minutes.
Now what? Go and have your day. Don't run your fingers through your hair during the day. In fact, touch your hair as little as possible. If it starts to look too flat, fling upside down and do a little scrunching. Fling back and don't touch it.

The beauty of well formed curls is that they can last more than one day. Diffusing is the curly girls' blowout. It should last at least two, maybe three days.

The best option for sleeping is, if your hair is long enough to pull up, put it up in a ponytail or ponyball on top of your head (the very top) so it doesn't get disturbed while you sleep. The next morning, keep it in the ball until you have showered (without wetting your hair) and done all the other getting ready things. Your hair should be the last thing to come down. Once you let your hair down, it will not have the same volume it did on day one. Actually, day one is my least favorite day with my own hair. I prefer the more relaxed curls of days two and three. There may be a line of demarcation where your hair was pulled back. Just shake it around and leave it alone, it will work itself out.

The thing it seems that most women struggle with even after they have diffused their hair is trying to control it. On day two don't wet part of your hair to calm it down or create more curls. If the definition of a curl is a bunch of hairs that have dried together in a circular shape, what will wetting part of your hair do?!? It will not create more curls, it will disturb the curl pattern. If your hair has a little frizz, just drink another cup of coffee and walk away. You forget, beautiful curls are the hair everyone else wants. Don't obsess over a little frizz on top. You are the only one who will notice it. Everyone else is noticing how great your curls look. Don't be so hard on yourself (or your hair).

Now all of these words have taken us up to day three. Day one was shampoo and condition then style. Days two and three are sleeping with hair up and basically doing nothing. Now we are at day four. Unless your scalp is very oily, or you have for some unknown reason, rolled in the dirt, your hair does not need to be shampooed again. Just rinse and condition and follow the styling steps in order and go three more days. Yes, that means it may be a week between shampoos. It's OK. Some curly hair advocates say to never shampoo. I disagree with that only because I believe the scalp needs the stimulation and to be cleaned. Even if you work out every day, water and conditioner are all you need.

Now that I have described curly styling and hair care, you should know that this entire explanation takes many more words than it does when I can demonstrate it. Anyone living a reasonable distance from our salon should just come in for a styling lesson. It's easier to demonstrate than to explain and styling lessons are not expensive (and they are free with a cut or color). If you don't live in our area and need curly hair help, find a stylist with curly hair who wears it curly. Many stylists have curly hair but straighten it. If they aren't wearing their own hair curly, they may not be able to help you figure out how to style yours curly.
Whew, I am tired from all this typing!

Have a great hair day!
Cheri'

Wow it has been a long time!

2010-08-26T06:21:00.000-07:00

Hair Body and Sole has relocated!

So since I have last blogged I have moved locations! The joys of being in downtown Apex included being conveniently located and part of a small town community. The downside (besides parking) had to do with being in a historic building. It was quaint but the cost of upkeep was astronomical. More than my small business could absorb.
I am relocated to 1269 Kildaire Farm Rd in Sola Salons in Saltbox Village Cary NC 27511 (right next to Outback Steakhouse). The old phone number will work for a time but my new number is (919)467-1111.
The other stylists and service providers who were at Hair, Body and Sole have scattered. I wish I could say where they are now but I have been pretty absorbed with keeping my own self going. Having said all that, it has really been a good move for me. I have two suites (122 and 123) and am very happy there. It has been really great getting back to what I love doing, which is hair. I have made fast friends with all the other stylists in Sola Salons and they seem to be equally happy there. We now have a full service facility which means skin care, nails and even massage is available. Each person is their own little business so please feel free to wander around and meet everyone. I have been particularly pleased with the level of professionalism I have observed from the other stylists and service providers. If there is a service I don't provide or specialize in, I can help find someone there who can help you. Hopefully most of you will make it by to see the new place and marvel at the wave of the future for stylists. Look for our ribbon cutting sometime at the end of September so you can come by and meet us all at once!
So Spread the word! Hair Body and Sole has reverted back to Hair by Cheri and I have relocated.

Hair Makeover

2010-02-10T13:25:00.000-08:00

Winter Hair Makeover
So what we did here was we took Jenny's hair and cut it to work well with her curly hair that was becoming frizzy. Also, we dialed down the color which really brought her skin into the light, bringing out her natural beauty in her curly hair and skin tone.

"Thanks for the wonderful hair cut and instructions! I LOVE my new hair!!!"

Seasonal Hair Color Changes

2010-01-20T13:39:00.001-08:00

Seasonal Hair Color Changes

Hair color used to be something women used strictly to cover gray. This is no longer the case. Haircolor has truly become an accesory. If you want to make a statement with your looks, besides a bold haircut, a drastic haircolor change can be fun and exciting.

Obviously these are extreme changes and quite frankly are usually better left to those with unlimited time and funds. Some hair colors are better than others at different times of year. For example, going warmer or more chestnut brown in the fall can be very flattering. Blonde always brightens a girls spirits in the spring and summer.

Some hair color changes are subtle and some are truly just for shock value. The only issue you need to consider when going from blonde to brunette and back again is the structural integrity of the hair. Incredible platinum tresses might be the pefect shade for you after going dark again for awhile but if it doesn't stay on your head (ie if it all falls out) then it's not doing anyone any good.

One of the other questions about seasonal hair color changes is of course the maintenance. Can you afford the every four week retouch that would be required to keep the right color blonde? If money isn't the issue, consider the time as well. Two hours in the salon is going to be average for transforming dark brown to golden to light blonde.

I'm certainly not trying to be discouraging, I believe wholeheartedly in seasonal hair color changes, but I also believe in being practical and making a change that is going to be flattering rather than just different.

Be aware that from blonde to red, then back to blonde again can be the most technically difficult and may require lightening more than once or twice. Sometimes going in stages is a safer alternative for the health of hair and scalp. This being said, Ashley Simpson looks so much more alive as a redhead than as a blonde. I have nothing against blondes but her eyes truly stand out and even her skin tone looks more alive with this color. What a great difference!

Happy client!

2009-07-15T12:06:00.000-07:00

Hi,
Wanted to send my pic after washing my hair from the Brazilian keratin treatment Thursday by Elisa! I was scared it would be too flat because it was REALLY flat and heavy-feeling over the weekend, but it feels so silky and looks awesome....and all I did was blow it dry, no straightener used...unbelievable I will stop by when I get a chance. I LOVE IT !!!!
Thank you so much!!!!!
Joanne Grussemeyer

Brazillian Straightening Treatment

2009-06-28T08:51:00.000-07:00

The top two rows of pictures were taken on the same day. First row, my natural hair. Second row, right after the class (didn't love the very straight). The other pictures scattered around this post are from the class. They are in no particular order. The after shots of the models are grouped

The Brazilian Straightening Treatment is one way to relax and manage overly curly or frizzy hair. For someone who loves curls and helps teach women how to make the most of their curls, why even go there? Several reason: first, I have seen in my career in the hair industry, curls that are very tight and coarse in texture which is hard to work with and live under. The clients with this type of hair feel oppressed by it and burdened. The way this type of curl grows is more horizontal than vertical. It turns more into an afro than a ringlet. I embrace all types of curls but I have seen the women who would like a looser curl than what they have naturally. So a relaxing product for this type of hair can actually weigh the curl down enough to make it more wearable. Second, not everyone who has curly hair wants to wear it that way. I love curls but not everyone does. How to help the curly girls who just don't want to learn how to make it work for them. So these are the reasons why, let's talk about the different types of curl relaxing products.

A little chemistry lesson. Skip this part if you are not interested but I believe knowledge is power and the more information a consumer has, the better decision they can make for themselves.

There is more than one way to straighten or relax hair. There is the good old fashioned roller set or blow out. This is a way to rearrange the shape and size of a curl by using heat. A roller set is achieved by applying a setting lotion or gel while the hair is wet and tolling it on rollers. The larger the roller, the more relaxed the curl. This is usually done for an event or special occasion. It is time consuming because the hair must be completely dry and cooled before the rollers are removed. This involves sitting under a hooded or bonnet dryer, sometimes for hours. The results are beautiful but short lived. As soon as the hair is wet (or even exposed to humidity) it begins to revert, which means return to it's naturally curly state. That looks like frizz or puffiness. If you wish to bypass chemicals altogether, this is your best option. It is the least damaging to the integrity of the hair but it is temporary and time consuming. Blowouts are the second non chemical option. You can do them yourself at home or have it done in the salon. A straightening gel is usually a good idea and then blowing hair dry in sections using a large round brush or a paddle brush. Also a temporary solution but non damaging.

Chemical Relaxers

There are several different brands and strengths of chemical relaxers or straighteners. The strongest is Sodium Hydroxide. This is a chemical used to relax or straighten very coarse , kinky and curly hair. It is used mostly on ethnic hair. It is very strong and caustic. If not applied properly it can easily cause chemical burns, scarring and permanent hair loss. It works by penetrating the cuticle and breaking the chemical bonds within the hair. The hair is manually straightened (by combing and pulling on it) and the bonds are re-established in a straight arrangement by finishing with a neutralizing shampoo. It does create straight hair but the damage is obvious. This also doesn't mean the hair dries straight by itself. It still has to be blown dry and styled with heat (a flat iron or curling iron).

The second strongest chemical relaxer is a Ammonium Thioglycolate based product. This chemical is the same one used to "perm" hair to create curls. The difference in using it as a straightener or a curl producing chemical is how the hair is arranged when the solution is applied. For example, to create curls, hair is rolled on perm rods, to straighten , hair is combed out or held (by boards, or sometimes papers) in a straight position. The bonds of the hair are broken then reshaped by the addition of a neutralizing chemical into whatever position the hair is held in. Japanese straighteners fall into this category. The hair is flat ironed into a straight position with the chemical in it.

Both Sodium Hydroxide and Ammonium Thioglycolate straighteners are permanent which means the curly hair will grow back in but the straight hair will remain straight and the new growth will have to be retouched. Overlapping when retouching can cause breakage.

The third type of hair relaxer is one that coats the hair as opposed to opening the cuticle and rearranging the bonds. This is the least invasive of the chemical type straighteners. It has no line of demarcation which means it wears off over time as opposed to growing out. There is never a need to retouch, the entire head would be done again. This is an off the scalp treatment. Many companies make products like this and they are commonly referred to as Brazilian Keratin Straighteners or Treatments. Keratin is what makes up hair. The chemical which actually causes the straightening or relaxing effect is Formaldehyde. The product we used, La Brazilia, has 2.6%, the lowest percentage on the market. The treatment never comes in contact with the skin. The product is applied to hair that has been treated with a clarifying shampoo then blown dry. The application process is very meticulous and tedious. The hair is then blown dry and flat ironed. There are fumes from the Formaldehyde and it is recommended the stylist wear gloves and a mask. The client can wear a mask or use a towel to cover the face. The fumes are the real concern but a well ventilated room and proper precautions minimize the risk. We have a seperate well ventillated room used for this service. You may not want to use this type of treatment if you have asthma or are prone to respiratory problems. After the process is complete, the hair must be kept in a straight condition for four days. This means no pulling it back in a headband, ponytail or even tucking it behind your ears. I was told to not even sweat if I could avoid it (which meant no working out). If the hair does get wet or starts to revert, it should be dried and flat ironed again as soon as possible. After the four days, it is shampooed out and styled as normal.

So what's the verdict?

The first picture is before the treatment, the second picture is two weeks later after a blowout.

Why would I, a stylist who loves curls, want to use such a product on my hair? It's simple, I can't advocate or use a product on any of my clients that I wouldn't use on myself. I needed to see how it felt and affected my hair before I could, in good conscience, use it on the people who trust me with their hair. So what was the outcome? Well, at first it was too straight for me. The four days of wearing it super straight were weird. I kept looking in the mirror thinking "Who is that?" After I was able to shampoo and diffuse my hair again, it was just wavy. I shampooed it a couple of days in a row and diffused, trying to get my ringlets back. I was having an identity crisis. After the third day of that, I decided to blow it out straight and see how it looked. I was shocked at how soft and healthy it looked and felt. I don't usually straighten my hair because it takes at least an hour and it never stays straight. This time it took 25 minutes and I wore it for 6 days. By then I was kind of grossing myself out so I shampooed, but not because my hair looked bad I just thought "it must be getting dirty by now". The humidity didn't affect it at all.

I kind of miss my curls but I just decided this will be the summer of straight hair for me. My husband loves it and I must say, it's nice to have my hair feel long and swishy for a change. I am still trying to figure out who I am without my big curly hair but I know it will come back as the treatment wears off and I am looking forward to having curls back.

I think this is a great solution for women with unmanageable curls. It can be particularly helpful in relaxing coarse tight ringlets. It's not for you if you have respiratory issues

Apex Goes 'Over the Moon'

2009-05-16T09:49:00.000-07:00

The whole crew of us at Hair Body and Sole have been thrilled to team up with Anne Clay and Arthur Levi Rainville to work on their 'Over the Moon ' Project. Aurthur and Anne are compiling photos for a book due to be out in Spring 2010 about how to create 1940's Hollywood Glam Photography. Their photographic magic in combination with the hair and makeup talents of the Hair Body and Sole Team: Elisa Ayers, Tara Reddy, Jennifer Roth, Heather Thomas, Jeff Kinney and Cheri Kinney along with freelance makeup artist Ashley Bromirski can be seen, in part, on the following Animoto video.

http://animoto.com/play/XYMq9Qc9m7EJySmcSA206g

The photos that have been proocuced so far will be on display at Hair, Body and Sole until the end of July. There was a great crowd at the Red Carpet Gala unveiling ceremony at the Apex Chamber of Comerce on Friday May 15th. Some of the models were there and it was amazing to see the transformations from average everyday women to icons like Marilym Monroe and Joan Crawford. The press release for the event can be seen at : http://www.theapexherald.com/pages/news/push?article-Author-s+dream+comes+to+life+thanks+to+local+women%20&link=push::target_page&id=2558380-Author-s+dream+comes+to+life+thanks+to+local+women&instance=secondary_stories_left_column

and as soon as the streaming video from the event is available, it will be posted here on our blog.

Teen Angst

2009-04-04T05:25:00.000-07:00

In April, During the run of The Vagina Monologues, my collection of photos titled Teen Angst will be on display at the Halle Cultural Arts Center in Apex. The pictures are a collection of photos of teenaged girls. First is a headshot. These are a fashion forecast for Spring and Summer 2009. The next photo of each girl is a 'situational' shot. Each one represents a different issue teen girls face in their culture every day. They include: a cutter, a pregnant teen, a girl who is selling prescription drugs, a girl with body image issues and a teen who can never get enough material possesions (insatiable). Some of the pictures are disturbing. They deal with things some people would rather not talk about. It is important to note that the girls in the photos do not engage in the behaviors or situations depicted with the exception of the pregnant girl, who is pregnant and the cutter who does in fact cut herself.

The press release and additional photos are posted at

http://www.hairbodyandsolespa.com/

Photosgraphy by Anne Clay.

Makeup Artist Ashley Bromirski.

Peak of Fashion 2009

2009-03-15T14:23:00.000-07:00

Below are three links to video from our fashion show and one link to still photos. The show was Friday , March 13th at Hair, Body and Sole Salon and it was cold and raining! Since it was printed on the front page of the Apex Herald as a rain or shine event, the show had to go on, even though it was an outside party. We put up tents and rented heaters and were shocked when 80 people came crowding in. We also had 24 models, 8 v-day volunteers and about 10 staff on hand to work. The tent was overflowing! The fashion show was great and it looked like everyone truly enjoyed it. Eric, our DJ kept the party going. Thanks to all the models, staff and v-day ladies who worked tirelessly to make it happen. Thanks also to those devoted fashionistas who braved the weather to supprt our event. If you would like to see more about the v-day mission, check it out at: http://newsite.vday.org/about/more-about
Tickets to The Vagina Monologues are only available online this year so get yours while they last!

Links for photos and video:

http://animoto.com/play/6Py9nxDkSqzJxNW014rXjw

http://animoto.com/play/JaS1DxgXnqtHEhoZZVkOaw

http://animoto.com/play/AmlGGvZONJ1hBkaMB582LQ

http://www.pureexpressionsphotography.com/blog/?p=3819

Pics of trendy cuts

2009-03-08T22:17:00.000-07:00

Growing out that trendy cut

2009-03-08T20:52:00.000-07:00

If you have ever decided to take the plunge and walk on the wild side with a trendy haircut, you understand the feeling of making a big change that seems liberating. You sometimes feel the weight of the world (or your long hair) has been lifted from your shoulders. You love it. You get it trimmed up every five weeks or so to make sure it looks just right. It hardly takes any time to style and if it's done well, it looks pretty much the same every day. Then that turns into day after day having the same hair. How do you grow out a cut that you LOVED for awhile but is now not really doing it for you?
Once you have 'lost that loving feeling' for a style, it sometimes seems like it just won't go away. That is particularly true with geometric cuts like the Victoria Beckham inspired bob that was very popular last year. I personally cut off bag fulls of hair from very long to jaw length short, and I am only one stylist. For awhile it seemed like everyone wanted that cut. In this area it became known as 'the Raleigh bob'.
This is not the first time geometric shapes in hairstyles have come around. Geometric cuts were first popularized by Vidal Sassoon in the late 60's and early 70's. It has been customized by many different pop icons (Dorothy Hamill, Twiggy) and in many variations but this particular incarnation had very strong lines, severe angles, and was at times, asymmetrical. As a stylist it has been fun to get creative with this haircut since t seemed to enrapture so many different women. But all good things must come to an end, so now, how to change it or grow it out?
One way to change your hairstyle is to go shorter. Maybe that angled bob can turn into a short in the back with an exaggerated bang cut like what Rhianna has been sometimes known to wear. One step further from that would be to cut it all short and wear it spiky for awhile. All fun and daring options. Once you have cut your hair short, you may never want to grow it back again!
What about the person who does want to have a longer style again RIGHT NOW? I have a few clients who have turned to extensions for awhile. You can have your stylist order the length and color you want and if they don't match exactly, if it is human hair, it can be colored to match. There are clip in extensions and fused extensions. Clip ins can be removed whenever you want but do have to be put in every day. Fused extensions are with you day in and day out but the cost can be significantly more. The thing to remember with extensions is you must have at least three inches of hair for them to work. Also, it is difficult to blend very strong lines with extensions because the shorter hair will show through. Getting a different shape of haircut may make this option more realistic looking. You just have to decide what fits with your lifestyle and budget.
If you have decided you want longer hair and you chose to grow it yourself, the best way to grow out a haircut like this is to first of all, not cut it every five weeks. This may not be a popular opinion with other stylists but my advice is go a few extra weeks. To change the shape of a strongly geometric cut, you have to have something to work with. The next step is to change the focal point. For example, the 'Posh Spice" haircut had a very strongly angled shape to it. The shortest point was in the back with steep angles moving forward towards the face. From the front, the obvious focal point was the longest point. For some women this was jaw length and for others, it was past the chin. Either way, to change a focal point like that, the lines need to be softened. In other words, round out that point. For someone who is growing their hair out, it can be downright terrifying to cut off the longest part. This is what has to happen to change the shape. If you soften the edges, they are no longer such a strong focal point and the shape begins to change You can also add an element of distraction, for instance add bangs. If you already have bangs, push them to the side. If they are heavy, try lightening them up. If they are already wispy, maybe make them heavier. Try something different to distract from the previous shape. As for the length overall, hair just has to grow.
Your stylist can help you come up with some different ideas to change it up a bit. Sometimes, it's worth a new set of eyes. I'm not suggesting you leave the person who has been doing your hair for years. All I am saying is that sometimes a different perspective, from someone who hasn't seen you before can get you on the road to a new style. You can always go back to the person you love, maybe with a new insight into your look.
You can also just try styling it differently. Try curling it or create a sleeker, flatter shape. Do something different so you don't get frustrated or bored and just get it cut off again. Hair grows on average 1/2 inch per month. I usually tell clients who are growing out a short style that in around four months it will begin to look significantly different. That doesn't mean it will magically be shoulder length again, but it will look noticeably different.
Don't be afraid about trying a fun, trendy or radically different haircut because you are worried about growing it out. Hair is a renewable resource and will grow back so you can try something else. Your hair can be an accessory you have fun with or a chore you have to deal with. You get to decide.
Have a great hair day!

Quick Tips

2009-03-02T17:38:00.000-08:00

Don't forget

Curls are a bunch of hairs that have dried together moving in a circular shape. Knowing this, please remember not to:
brush your hair,
comb it once it's dry,
run your fingers through it when it's dry,
shampoo every day or
blow dry without a diffuser.

Make sure you do:
condition at least twice as often as you shampoo,
use enough product,
distribute product evenly and
diffuse until mostly dry.

Don't be so critical of your hair or yourself. You may see the few hairs sticking straight up on top of your head. Everyone else will see the rest of your fabulous curls and your great smile.

2009-02-18T04:28:00.000-08:00

Lets talk about curls

The biggest complaints I hear from curly girls are: frizz and lack of styling knowledge. It's all pretty simple but it will take a shift in thinking to care for your curls properly and have predictably good hair days.

First let's define curls. A curl is a group of hairs that have dried together moving in the same direction at the same time. That direction is a circle. Because of the shape of the hair follicle, each of those hairs will move in a circular shape whether they are together in a group or not. When hairs dry NOT grouped together, they take on the appearance of frizz. What that means in a practical sense is that it's to our advantage to keep the hairs grouped together until they have dried. This will create more ringlets and less frizz. So with that knowledge, what things would you automatically change in your hair care routine?

Re-read the above definition of a curl before moving on and think about what you do when you get out of the shower.

To encourage curls you would not wrap your hair in a towel. The reason for this is the hairs which are in contact with the towel will dry more quickly than the hairs not in contact with the towel. We need them to group together before they begin to dry.
Also, don't rub your hair with a towel. Don't brush or comb your hair either. What should you do? Now that you understand the concept of encouraging the hairs to stick together until they dry, lets talk about the routine from shower to drying.

On day one in the shower, wet your hair and apply shampoo. Concentrate the product near your scalp and work it out towards the ends. Some of the best shampoos for curly hair are 'sulfate free'. The detergents in sulfate free shampoos are more gentle to the hair. Because of this, they do not lather as much as other shampoos. Put a dime sized amount in your hand, rub your hands together and apply to scalp working your way out towards the ends. These shampoos are also VERY concentrated. If you are having trouble getting good distribution, add more water, not more product. Now rinse thoroughly.

Next is conditioner. The shampoo was used to remove excess oil and build up on your scalp, conditioners should be applied mostly to the mid shaft and ends of the hair. Think about it, the hair close to your scalp is new, it's healthier than the mid shaft and ends and therefore needs less conditioner. Conditioners can weigh down healthy hair and cause your curls on top to be flat. Finger comb conditioner through your hair. It's okay if some of it gets on your scalp, just don't start there or concentrate on that area. On day one of my routine I usually condition twice, meaning apply conditioner, rinse and condition again. That is because I have dry and somewhat coarse hair. You should obviously adjust this part of the routine to your own needs. Finer hair (or short curly hair) may not need to be conditioned twice. Make sure you rinse thoroughly and can run your fingers through your hair from scalp to ends without hitting any snags before you get out of the shower.

Before I get out of the shower, I fling my head over and squeeze any excess water from my hair. Do not twist and squeeze, just squeeze while working your way down.
Now take a towel and blot the water from your hair. I usually also do this upside down. Don't rub, just blot out excess water. Sometimes a paper towel is a better choice because it absorbs more water without disrupting the shape of the curls.

Now it's time to apply styling products. Your hair should be evenly wet but not dripping at this point. Apply leave in conditioners first. Sometimes they are called styling creams. Even distribution is key. Come up with a method that works for you that you will remember and can replicate each time. You should be using (of course depending on hair length and texture) between a pea nand a lima bean sized amount.

Next, apply your fixative. By that I mean gel or mousse. Mousse is used if you need volume, gel for durability. Most of my curly haired clients use gel. Use one or the other, not both. Again, even application is essential. Use a little more of the gel or mousse than you used of the cream. For longer hair, it should be about the size of a quarter for gel, a golf ball for mousse. You may need another application to cover all your hair but don't try to use twice the amount at once. Apply once, then put more in your hand and apply again. Again, distribution is a key factor. Any hairs that don't get product on them will dry and look differently that the other hairs and will probably create frizz. The products are helping the curls to stick together.

Finally, the use of a spray gel will give better curl definition. Spray liberally over entire head. In my experience, most people aren't using enough of their products. Play around with the amount until it's right for you. We are layering products now. They all have different jobs. Don't try to mix them together in your hand and apply all at once. That is called cocktailing (more about that later ) what we are doing now is layering.

Even distribution of product is critical! If you use the spray gel on part of your hair and not all of it,the curls without the spray gel will not be shaped the same as the ones with it.
Now that we have layered three different products on our wet but not dripping hair, it is more wet than when we started. This is where paper towels come in really handy. Blot (DO NOT RUB) excess moisture out of the ends. This will cut down on drying time.

Now about drying. You will need a diffuser which is concave and has fingers. I find the dirrusers that come with hairdryers as an attachment are usually not deep enough. Try it to see if it works for you but a diffuser bought separately is an inexpensive investment that will be well worth it. Make sure the front of your hair is in the shape you prefer before you start. If you like it going one way or the other, make that adjustment before you start drying.

I like to start with my head upside down when drying. Know that if you fling upside down and start drying the top first you will have more volume. If the look you want is more of a vertical curl and less volume, start by leaning your head to the side. It doesn't matter which side you start on. Using your hairdryer on high heat and high volume with the diffuser on it, start drying in sections. The reason you are leaning to one side or the other (or are upside down) is because your hair should be hanging so you can place it in the cavity of the diffuser. In fact,the entire time you are drying, hair will simply be placed in the cavity of the diffuser and left there. Do not scrunch your hair while drying. This will separate the hairs and create frizz (or great 80's hair). Keep your hair in the diffuser until the heat gets to be too much around your face or scalp. This wii be about 10-15 seconds. Now take the dryer away and place the hair in the cavity again. Repeat this process until each section of hair is dry.

Please, Do not be afraid of the process. If for instance you start drying upside down, when you flip over, your hair will be huge. Don't freak out, don't try to pat it down or make it flatter. Gravity still works. It works every day on everything including your hair. It will look crazy during the drying process but it will all come together in the end.

Now that your hair is dry, it's probably big, funny shaped and crunchy. Now you may be wondering 'all that work for this?' or "what do I do now?'. Now that your hair is dried into curls, you can touch it without creating frizz as long as you touch it in the right way. So don't run your fingers through your hair! Scrunch it instead.

Scrunching is rubbing your fingers against the fat part of your hand. Thumbs are not engaged. Try doing it without hair before you try it on your hair. The purpose of scrunching is to get rid of the crunchy feeling and create a shape which you like. Know that you should scrunch until it looks the way you want it to, and then stop. You can scrunch too much, separate the hairs and create the frizz you were trying to avoid by diffusing. This sounds like a lot of work. It might take some time whan you first do it because you will be unpracticed. As you get better, it takes less time. My hair is pretty long and the whole process takes less than 15 minutes.
Now what? Go and have your day. Don't run your fingers through your hair during the day. In fact, touch your hair as little as possible. If it starts to look too flat, fling upside down and do a little scrunching. Fling back and don't touch it.

The beauty of well formed curls is that they can last more than one day. Diffusing is the curly girls' blowout. It should last at least two, maybe three days.

The best option for sleeping is, if your hair is long enough to pull up, put it up in a ponytail or ponyball on top of your head (the very top) so it doesn't get disturbed while you sleep. The next morning, keep it in the ball until you have showered (without wetting your hair) and done all the other getting ready things. Your hair should be the last thing to come down. Once you let your hair down, it will not have the same volume it did on day one. Actually, day one is my least favorite day with my own hair. I prefer the more relaxed curls of days two and three. There may be a line of demarcation where your hair was pulled back. Just shake it around and leave it alone, it will work itself out.

The thing it seems that most women struggle with even after they have diffused their hair is trying to control it. On day two don't wet part of your hair to calm it down or create more curls. If the definition of a curl is a bunch of hairs that have dried together in a circular shape, what will wetting part of your hair do?!? It will not create more curls, it will disturb the curl pattern. If your hair has a little frizz, just drink another cup of coffee and walk away. You forget, beautiful curls are the hair everyone else wants. Don't obsess over a little frizz on top. You are the only one who will notice it. Everyone else is noticing how great your curls look. Don't be so hard on yourself (or your hair).

Now all of these words have taken us up to day three. Day one was shampoo and condition then style. Days two and three are sleeping with hair up and basically doing nothing. Now we are at day four. Unless your scalp is very oily, or you have for some unknown reason, rolled in the dirt, your hair does not need to be shampooed again. Just rinse and condition and follow the styling steps in order and go three more days. Yes, that means it may be a week between shampoos. It's OK. Some curly hair advocates say to never shampoo. I disagree with that only because I believe the scalp needs the stimulation and to be cleaned. Even if you work out every day, water and conditioner are all you need.

Now that I have described curly styling and hair care, you should know that this entire explanation takes many more words than it does when I can demonstrate it. Anyone living a reasonable distance from our salon should just come in for a styling lesson. It's easier to demonstrate than to explain and styling lessons are not expensive (and they are free with a cut or color). If you don't live in our area and need curly hair help, find a stylist with curly hair who wears it curly. Many stylists have curly hair but straighten it. If they aren't wearing their own hair curly, they may not be able to help you figure out how to style yours curly.
Whew, I am tired from all this typing!

Have a great hair day!
Cheri'

Pics of Face Shapes

2009-01-29T09:21:00.000-08:00

Getting Started/Face Shape

2009-01-28T05:35:00.000-08:00

Please bear with me as I set up this page, it's an all new forum to me.

Let's get started. The most common comment made by women who sit in my chair and look at themselves in the mirror is "I want a style that helps hide my round face." I understand that most women don't have the experience of standing in front of a mirror all day so when they do glance in a mirror, they are instantly critical. I'm here to tell you, a very small percentage of women actually have a round face. It's not a very common face shape. I think that comment has more to do with most of us feeling like we need to lose 5 lbs than it has to do with facial shape. Even if you are overweight by 20, 30 or more lbs, it still doesn't usually affect facial shape.

Face shape has to do with your bone structure. A stylist can be very helpful in determining your face shape but be aware, that is a subjective thing. One stylist may tell you your face is oval while another may say you are rectangular. Let's take some of the mystery out of it shall we?

Determining your face Shape

First, pull your hair back with a headband or into a pony tail. If you have bangs, pin them back. Now you can see your whole face. Look not at the whole of it but at the edges. What is the widest horizontal part of your face? Is you forehead wider than your cheekbones? Are your cheekbones wider than your jaw? Imagine (or actually do this if it helps) a ruler on a horizontal plane at each of these three areas: Forehead, Cheekbones, jawline. Which is widest? Now go to the next widest and finally the most narrow. Now that you have taken an objective view of these three areas, the rest is just geometry.

If you are the same width at the forehead, cheekbone and jaw, you have a square face. Think about what makes a square. Four points. We are looking at six points when we add in cheekbones so we are horizontally cutting the square in half, but only as a point of reference.

Now check out the length of your face and compare it to the width. If the length is greater than the width, you are rectangular. Think geometrically, a rectangle is just an elongated square. If the width and length are close to the same, you are still in the square family.

If your forehead, cheekbones and jawline are about the same width but the edges are rounded instead of prominently straight, you have an oval ( assuming that your face is longer than it is wide, most people's are). Again, think geometrically, an oval is nothing more than a rectangle with the edges rounded off.

Still looking at your face on a horizontal plane, if your cheekbones are wider than your forehead AND your jawline, your face shape is a diamond. Think back to 8th grade geometry, picture a diamond shape. It's smallest horizontal areas are the top and bottom with the middle being the widest. There you have it.

A triangle shape is present when the forehead is widest, with a smallest cheekbone and a still smaller shaped jawline. An upside down triangle is the exact opposite, jawline widest, with a smaller cheekbone and an even smaller forehead.

When you have a heart shape, the forehead is just slightly less wide than the cheekbones and the the jawline is smaller than either of the higher horizontal planes. Remember the hearts you drew on valentines? That is the shape we refer to. This face shape is made even more obvious if the chin is slightly 'pointy' or if there is a widow's peak at the forehead. Imagine that person in your mind. Do you see the heart shape if those components are present?

After determining your face shape, how do you know what style is best for you? When using hair to alter the appearance of your face shape, the stylist is trying to emphasize one area while deemphasizing another. For instance, a straight across bang with very straight sides will emphasize a square or rectangular face shape. Framing the face and creating a side-swept bang would deemphasize the angles of a square. The oval shaped face can wear almost any hairstyle. If you wish to change the appearance of face shape, talk to the stylist about what hairstyles would work on you. Be sure to first ask the stylist what face shape they think you have just to make sure you are both on the same page. Remember, face shape is subjective. They may see you as rectangular even if you believe you are square. Just be sure to communicate the areas you want to play up or down.

Hope this helps, you can email or comment if I can answer any questions. I will try to find some pictures to post.

Have a good hair day!

Cheri'